The MET Gala and Chinese Fashion Diplomacy
The stronger the nation, the more her influence
spreads across oceans and continents. This is what we learned in Diplomacy 101
at campus. Indeed, as the world saw the rise of China in terms of economy and
politics globally, at the recently concluded Metropolitan Museum of Art in New
York’s Gala Dinner, aptly known as The MET Gala, we have witnessed how Chinese
has inspired the fashion world.
The MET Gala begins with an exhibition titled
“China Through The Looking Glass”. The exhibition which is presented in the
Chinese Galleries and Anna Wintour Costume Center of the MET brings the very
best of Chinese inspired high fashions from Poiret to Yves Saint Laurent. In
comparison to Oscar Night which only feature the actors and actresses, MET Gala
is the IT event which also shows not only the actors and actresses, singers,
and socialite, but also the most influential designers and editors who often
walk side by side with their living mannequin.
During the Gala, the Chinese Fashion Diplomacy
is not only seen by the appointment of the beautiful Wendi Deng Murdoch, the Chinese-born
former spouse of Rupert Murdoch the Australian news magnate, and the gorgeous
Gong Li, the Chinese mega movie star, in serving as Co-Chairs of MET Gala
together, among others, with the US Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour and
Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence.
The appointment of two Chinese descended high
profile figures to serve as Co-Chairs of MET Gala has indeed shown the strength
of Chinese diplomacy through fashion industry.
As we witnessed the appearance of each VIP
guest attending at the Gala, it is becoming more apparent how Chinese inspired
dress and accessories are stunningly demonstrated.
From Sarah Jessica Parker with her Philip
Treacy’s innovative take on Chinese bride fascinator to Gong Li’s velvet and
lace cheong sam, from Rihanna’s yellow colored Chinese Empress-like robe to
Zhang Ziyi’s Carolina Herrera designed cheong sam styled gown, all attendees
and faithful specators from around the world witness the rising power of Chinese
fashion diplomacy as vividly seen in the fashion ensemble of the stars.
As an Asian, it brings me pleasure to see quite
a handful representation of Asian Who’s Who in the MET Gala, including Zhang
Ziyi, Yang Fei Fei, etc. However, as an Indonesian, I am quite concerned that
none of Indonesian most important figures in fashion industry from the
designers to the movies stars and singers who have labeled themselves ‘go
international’ are represented in the Gala or even invited.
If only all stakeholders of Indonesian fashion
industry work together relentlessly, it would be possible to approach the
stakeholders of MET Gala in organizing a specific Indonesian theme which will
focus on Indonesia’s abundant textile tradition, perhaps Batik, Ikat, Songket
or other traditional textiles which are the treasures of Indonesia.
This would require lots, lots, and lots of good
works, but again –as I have always been taught by my father that nothing is
beyond our reach as long as we work hard to earn it- this is possible. Look at
the triumph of Chinese fashion diplomacy, this is because the Chinese community
made it happen. Both Wendi Deng Murdoch and Gong Li are two of the most well-known
and respected Chinese figures in the world. They and their teams along with
other notable Chinese stakeholders in fashion industry should have been working
intensely with the Metropolitan Museum of New York in organizing the gala and
exhibition.
Wendi Murdoch and Gong Li may not wear their
pride Cheong Sam on daily basis but they sure put their hearts on the
development of Chinese fashion industry. No, do not get me wrong. I am not
saying that Indonesian fashionistas are not concerned with the development of
Indonesian fashion industry. But, yes, concerns are far more than just purchasing
and wearing creations of Indonesian designers. While this is important to
maintain the business of our home-grown designers, there are much to be done.
One of the most important issues is
establishing closer links between actors of Indonesian fashion industry to the
world’s decision makers on fashion industry. This is when all related
stakeholders have to sit together to design a future for the Indonesian fashion
industry. This is when we decide a beautiful future to our beloved Batik, Ikat,
Songket as our ancestors have kindly endowed all these textiles to us not only
to care but also to develop them further.
Fashionistas, as I end this piece of writing on
the recent MET Gala, let me return a few decades back when in the 1990s,
Indonesian movie stars would never dream in having its representative serving
as one of the Juries in Cannes Film Festival. It all changed in 2002 when the
world saw Christine Hakim, Indonesian leading movie star, along with Hollywood
heavy-weights such as Sharon Stone and Michelle Yeoh, serving as Jury. As she
graced the opening of the Festival she was dressed in a black velvet kebaya
with gold embroidery and a hand-painted Indonesian Batik cloth by Iwan Tirta,
the late Indonesian Batik maestro. Precisely a decade afterwards, Indonesians
were once again very proud to see their home-grown younger movie actress such
as Dian Sastrowardoyo and Prisia Nasution walked gracefully in the festival’s
red carpet in Cannes.
More recently, we witnessed that Indonesian
talented songstress, Andien, was invited to attend the New York Fashion Week in
2013. During her attendance, she wore several beautiful creations by Indonesian
leading designers, including Edward Hutabarat dress from hand-painted
Indonesian Batik and Didiet Maulana’s Ikat Indonesia dress.
The above-mentioned last two paragraphs have
demonstrated that when there is a will, there will always be a way. In the
1990s it was beyond our imagination to see any Indonesian in such prestigious
movie festival as well as distinguished fashion event, however we saw the rise
of Indonesian talents in the new millennium.
I imagine that someday there will be
Indonesians who served as the Co-Chairs of the MET Gala, perhaps Mbak Svida
Alisyahbana or Ibu Dian Muljadi representing the Indonesian mode industry and
Maudy Kusnaedi or Dian Sastrowardoyo representing the Indonesian arts scene. Then,
during the most awaited Gala, Sarah Jessica Parker will perhaps style her hair
in a Javanese sanggul bun along with
the traditional head pieces or wear a custom made Lampungnese siger which is a traditional head piece
for a bride from this province. Rihanna would probably wear a ball gown made
from Josephine Komara’s Obin signature hand-made silk Batik white-on-white and
Madonna would perhaps wear a highly-intricate lace kebaya from Anne Avantie completed with a color coordinated
hand-made Batik cloth from Iwan Tirta Private Collection. Another dream that I
have is that someday a full statue of Dewi
Sri would be made all of Indonesian mawar
(roses) and melati (jasmine) in the
center of Metropolitan Museum for the Gala as the Chinoiserie vase stood during
this year’s gala.
The question now lies upon Indonesians, regardless
of our positions in the community, are we willing to give what it takes as the
Chinese community has with their fashion diplomacy so it will shine, shine,
shine even more or are we content enough with the current situation?
I, for sure, want Indonesian fashion industry
to shine bright like a diamond, as the Barbados-born-pop-diva-turned-global-style-icon,
Rihanna, sang in one of her catchy songs.
Now, I want to know your answer Indonesian
fashionista!
With the MET Gala so vividly shown a strong
sense of Chinese fashion diplomacy, how can anyone be doubtful about the major
importance of fashion diplomacy in the 21st century! Wendi Deng
Murdoch and Gong Li, dressed in Roberto Cavalli’s velvet cheongsam, serving as
the Co-Chairs with Anna Wintour and Jennifer Lawrence.
Sarah Jessica Parker in a Chinese bride
inspired head piece by Philip Treacy and a black custom dress with Chinese applique by H&M.
Rihanna in a yellow colored Chinese Empress
style robe by Guo Pei. The hand-stitched robe took two years to finalized.
Zhang Ziyi in a white colored cheong sam styled
dress by Carolina Herrera.
Yang Fei Fei in Michael Kors designed dress.
The dress may not look Chinese inspired but take a look at the hair do with
traditional Chinese bun as well as the detailed mascara which resemble the make
up of the Chinese Empress in the previous centuries.
Rita Ora with Tom Ford in the designer’s red
crimson cheong sam styled dress with mini cape.
Mega Mendung (large cloud) pattern on the dress worn by Katie Holmes. Holmes is
accompanied with the dress designer, Zac Posen. This pattern is known as Mega
Mendung pattern in Indonesian Batik.
Photo references: Just Jared, Style.com,
#jetfashiondiplomacy #metgala2015
#chinesefashiondiplomacy #cheongsam #metropolitanmuseumofartnewyork #newyork
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